Saturday, 9 November 2013

Rome Pt 3

15th January 2013
Today was the Vatican! Exchange dude also recommended that I climb the dome. Which I didn't, but more on that later.

I had every intention of taking a short cut to the Tiber River and then to enter the Vatican. Oh boy. From Day 1, I had this issue where I could never end up where I wanted. I'm not entirely sure why. Actually, that is a lie. I could always end up back at my hostel because I knew this one long route and every time I deviated from it thinking, "oh yes, I think I can go down this one instead, it will take me there faster'. Nope. I would get lost and resort to retracing my steps to follow the long path. The problem was, I wasn't even entirely sure why I got lost at least 5 times a day. My sense of direction was completely off and everytime I thought I was heading north, I was almost certain to have been heading in every other direction which was completely bizarre. In every other city that I visited, I had never truly gotten so lost to the point where I wasn't even sure which direction I was heading. I always knew roughly where I was. Perhaps it was the streets which just curved everywhere or the little laneways or roads that weren't documented on any map. I don't know. Or perhaps my mounting frustration got the better of me. [/rant for now]

Finally, I made it to the river and crossed to Castel Sant'Angelo before eventually making my way to Vatican City.
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The thing about travelling in low season is the significantly fewer people at attractions. But I forget that when I read travel guides or articles on the internet because everything mentioned waiting in line for hours simply to enter. Yes there was security and I breezed through it without any hassle.

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Perhaps it was my increasing disappointment with Rome or perhaps the attractions really weren't special. But St. Peter's Basilica was so underwhelming. It was somewhat impressive upon immediate entry, but the further I walked, the more meh it became. Especially when I looked at the painting inside the dome. I couldn't help but compare it to the one in Florence which was infinitely more impressive. And it was because I was so apathetic towards the cathedral that I didn't even bother climbing up to the dome, even though it would have been perfect due to the absence of queues. At every major attraction in Rome, I was listening to my audio guide and even that didn't make anything interesting which was so surprising.

I ended up wandering outside the Vatican and I laughed when I saw a Durex (condom) machine a mere 50m from the church.

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I stumbled upon a local market and bought some fresh fruit. My plan for the rest of the day was to head back to Tiber River (not via the route that I took to get to the Vatican) and to explore more of Rome on the other side. Boy was I wrong. So I walked in a straight line, down this one road that I was certain would take me to the river.

I eventually ended on a road that looked like this.

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Note the absence of a footpath

I walked past a lot of gated mansions with - I kid you not- armed security guards outside the gates. Whilst I was walking up the road that did not have a footpath.

I walked to the point where there weren't any shops and it was purely residential homes. And I could not find the bloody river. I was lost in that residential area for 2 hours I believe. It didn't bother me too much since I knew I had plenty of daylight left and there was no way that I would have walked out of Rome. My peak of frustration was when I finally found a road that looked promising and then ... it curved, and curved some more because the road was more a crescent than anything. So basically I ended up in the same direction where I started, but further down. Finally, by some miracle I stumbled upon some students and I followed them becauase I presumed that they would be heading towards the main road. And that assumption was correct because I finally found the main road and after taking 2 more roads, I finally reached the river. Hallelujah. Praise the Lord.

I crossed the river.  By the way, the bridge that I crossed wasn't even on the map that I was issued at the hostel; it was that far south. Truth be told, when I crossed the river, it was one of few times where I felt unsafe. There was not a soul to be seen and the area just had a dodgy feeling. Feelings reminscent of West End of Atlanta with the double locks and barred verandas.

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Hmm.


But I knew that if I followed the river north, it would take me back to where I wanted to be.

Just did some quick Googling of the area: Testaccio (well more the fringe of that area)

[...]the border between the poverty of squats and homeless hiding and living on the banks of the Tiber, an area all but safe where illegal activities occur daily (they are probably the only activities occurring at all), and the richness of the inhabitants of the residential area of Testaccio
 Apparently there are a lot of amazing restaurants in the area.

The further I followed the river (or stream of dirty water), the 'richer' it became and the buildings became nicer.

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Tiber Island

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Naturally, upon reaching the central part of Rome, I got lost. Again. Again.  The most frustrating day. The upside is that I saw more of Rome than I would have ever seen if I didn't get lost as I was off the beaten path. Plus, I have a lovely story to tell. Sort of. The armed men still freak me out a little. Also, I listened to Taylor Swift's album on repeat and what I discovered was that after every 2 songs, there was a song that was actually decent! I fell in love with 'The Last Time'. (Just listened to a live version. Oh dear this one part. Though I actually think it is the guy and not Taylor. Wait, I'm not sure. And what is she wearing?!).

And a rough map of where I walked (although I did get lost so I am not entirely sure what happened when I was on the lower left hand side of the map).
Just for clarification, the white ellipse is where the main attractions are located. It's hard to say how far I did walk, but it is in the vicinity of 25km.

When I was in the US, I did gain some weight (probably 5kg) but I lost it all when I went to Europe which isn't surprising considering I didn't really eat and walked a lot.

Rome Pt 2

14th January 2013
Exchange dude had highly recommended that I visit Capuchin Crypt.

It contains the skeletal remains of 3,700 bodies believed to be Capuchin friars buried by their order.

It was creepy (human remains used as art) but also incredibly underwhelming and I left the place so disappointed.

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Upside to the torrential rain. 

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Roman Forum

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I went to the Coleseum again with the intention of entering it. Since I was travelling in low season, the line was only 10 people long, but when I actually got there, I just lost interest. And that was basically how I felt the entire time I was in Rome. I ended up wandering around looking at all the attractions listed on my map.

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I don't have a photo of it without me there. Also don't want my face on the internet either hence the cloud.

One of the places that I always wanted to visit since I was in primary school was Bocca della Verità and it was really awesome, probably the highlight of my trip to Rome. I also visited the church attached and spoke to the guy (or more accurately, the guy started to talk to me) and then we somehow got onto the topic of the Australian bushfires.

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Exchange dude had also recommended that I visit this 'amazing' restaurant, an alleged hidden jem. Oh it was hidden all right. I had actually tried to locate it the night before and couldn't find it. I tried again and there was no one there. Literally.

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Super fast, but I was worried the owner/ waiter/ chef would actually catch me.

The pasta was homemade and it was lovely, but I also picked without thinking. I ordered a cream based pasta sauce which was so rich and sickening after a while. I only ate 1/3 of it. Also, one my biggest gripes / cultural shock with Europe was a) the fact I had to pay to use bathrooms (although I usually got around this by not going to the bathroom or visiting a Maccas) and b) that water is not free! The idea of "tap water" isn't, I guess, really a big thing and I kept on forgetting about that.
Thursday, 7 November 2013

Florence Pt 2

12th January 2013
On the second day, I joined the free walking tour offered by the hostel. But just before that, the breakfast was amazing! It was buffet style and it had a considerable variety. There were eggs, bacon, sausage, coffee, cereal, fruit, etc. An amazing spread and the hostel was in a great location as it was near the station. I stayed at Archi Rossi.Originally, I was tossing up between a few significantly cheaper hostels but reviews seemed to be quite dodgy so I splurged on Archi Rossi (I believe I paid $20 AUD/ night not including city tax and every other tax imaginable).

I didn't include any photos of the duomo (Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore) in the previous entry because it was gloomy.

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Actually really hard to illustrate how amazing the building was using my photos alone.

Firenze Dome HDR
NOT MY PHOTO. Credit.

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The tour was informative and as it was free, I couldn't complain! I went back to the Duomo and decided to climb to the top.

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On the inside of the dome.

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Look closely. Hmm. Can you spot it? Look at the torches held by the devils.

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If that is what hell looks like, I sure don't want to be there. I went to Catholic school and to church for many years and I really don't remember learning about a 3 faced creature in Hell. .

The view was breathtaking and the weather was gorgeous!

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My typical lunch. Of course. Back to the present, I bought 1kg of Twiggy sticks and I believe I am 20% through and I am dreading the rest. I love salami and other cured meats, but my biggest issue is the fat pockets. It honestly grosses me out and in my Twiggy sticks they are becoming quite a significant issue.

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My Overall Thoughts
Florence is so gorgeous and so incredible. I loved the street stalls selling every leather product imaginable. If I wasn't so conscious about the weight of my luggage, I would have loved to splurge on a leather handbag or satchel. I love the smell of leather. It was a lot busier and crowded than I imagined, considering that I was travelling in low season so I can't really imagine being there during peak season in the summer.

My experiences in Florence always make me smile. It was an incredible city, coupled with Pierre (the man I met on the first night).

Would I re-visit?
Yes. Yes. Yes. Florence is my favourite city out of all the places that I have ever visited (places in the USA, Canada, Europe and Australia). I had never really thought of visiting it until my Student Flights travel agent (who by the way, was so lovely and I will have a random post at some stage about him) recommended me to visit Florence as it was his favourite city after Barcelona. And I completely agree. It is a place that I would recommend to everyone. I would also love to explore more of Florence (I didn't have time for the galleries) and Tuscany at some stage in the -hopefully- near future.

Next stop: Rome. 

Florence Pt 1

11 January 2013
Florence is an hour train ride from Pisa. After disembarking at Centrale, it was immediately obvious that Florence was a much larger city than Pisa.

One of the first stops in Florence was the supermarket and once again, I stocked up on salami, cheese and bread. I also bought a iced tea drink however I couldn't open the bloody thing! Normally I am pretty good, but this lid was just glued on. I actually asked two male Korean tourists if they could open it for me but they couldn't. I was actually really close to throwing out the drink (although that would have been such a waste of 2). On my way to the duomo, a middle aged gentleman was walking in the opposite direction and I stopped him and with my incredibly limited Italian (which consisted of "Hi, excuse me" and then motioned towards my drink lid). He struggled and I tried to tell him that it was okay but he insisted and actually - and this was so adorable- he got out his keys and basically pried off the lid from my bottle and I thanked him profusely.

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The Duomo was incredible. Absolutely incredible.

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Eventually, I stumbled upon Arno River and Ponte Vecchio. On the bridge as I was taking a photo of Florence, an elderly Italian gentleman - Pierre- approached me and asked me if I wanted him to take my photo. After the experience in Pisa, I was a little hesitant and I told him that it was fine. But he was persistent so I caved. He started to ask about my background and he commented on the fact that I was travelling by myself ('My daughters would never do that') and offered to give me a quick tour of Florence. So off we went. He talked about the history of the city, the Medici family and the palace. We stopped off at Chiesa di Santa Felicita which had this incredible painting (and the guy said it was very important, but I can't remember what it was. Whoops). We must have walked for an hour or so and it was so enjoyable since he was so knowledgable. We talked about the city, his home and his family. He also showed me the "most romantic spot" in Florence and it was incredible. When we parted, he gave me a proper cheek kiss and such a lovely, lovely hug. What a sweet man.

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Ponte Vecchio

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